Manila: Fabulous FEU Art Deco Walking Tour

Throughout his college days, Tutubi passed by Espana and Lerma streets on his way to school and each time got amazed at the unique letters used in the Far Eastern University building visible from Quezon Boulevard. The name of the university emblazoned bearing a likeness to baybayin (wrongfully called alibata), the ancient script of forefathers of present day Filipinos.

This time, Tutubi joined a tour of the sprawling campus of FEU: its art deco gems, works of various national artists and a bonus trip to nearby Gota de Leche.

Tutubi arrived at FEU with J, and RM (of Project Manila) in J's black altis but their guide for the day, Ivan ManDy, didn't notice Tutubi and waited for him to arrive even if he's already inside taking some pictures.

The tour started with Ivan becoming "historical" again narrating various events that led to the introduction of Art Deco architecture in the Philippines in the roaring 20s.

One of four bas relief by noted Italian sculptor Francesco Monti. Other works include Quezon Memorial, Metropolitan Theater, Sto Domingo, Bonifacio Monument, Manila Central Post Office and University of Visayas

FEU campus is a complex of art deco buildings by Pablo Antonio with Nicanor Reyes Hall, the Girls High School (now called the FEU-East Asia College) and Boys High School (now called Law Building).

Nicanor Reyes Hall, with the baybayin-looking letters





Statues by National Artist Vicente Manansala

Merriam and Webster defines art deco as "a popular design style of the 1920s and 1930s characterized especially by bold outlines, geometric and zigzag forms, and the use of new materials (as plastic)." (Etymology: French Art Déco, from Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, an exposition of modern decorative and industrial arts held in Paris, France, in 1925)




Chapel designed by Felipe Mendoza



Stations of the Cross inside the FEU chapel by National Artist Carlos "Botong" Francisco



FEU auditorium

Mural by Antonio Dumlao


Noticed the letters looked like Baybayin (alibata), the ancient script of the ancestors of Filipinos that Tutubi uses to sign his photographs?

Owing to the exemplary conservation work done by the university, UNESCO awarded the university the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award in 2005.

During World War 2, the campus was used as a concentration camp by the Kempeitai and where Josefa Llanes Escoda, the founder of the Girl Scouts of the Philippines, was executed.

After the FEU tour, Tutubi suggested visiting the nearby Gota de Leche building on S.H. Loyola St (formerly Lepanto), a request acquiesed by the gracious guide.

The university produced many outstanding graduates in it's existence but the greatest of them all, according to Tutubi graduated in 1967 with a degree in accounting.

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Tutubi's own eyes saw these other Art Deco Structures in Manila and other parts of the Philippines:

1. Jai Alai Fronton on Taft Avenue (Welton Becket, demolished 2004)
2. Avenue Theater (Juan Nakpil, demolished 2006)
3. Metropolitan Theater (The Met)(Juan Arellano, undergoing renovation)
4. Perez-Samanillo Building on Escolta (Andres Luna de San Pedro, good condition)
5. Rizal Memorial Stadium (Juan Nakpil, extant but neglected)
6. Capitol Theater on Escolta (Juan Nakpil, forlorn)
7. Quezon Bridge
8. Meralco Building on San Marcelino St
9. St. Cecilia Hall of St. Scholastica College (Andres Luna de San Pedro, excellent)
10. Sariaya, Quezon Municipal Hall (Juan Arellano, in use)
11. Nielson Tower now Filipinas Heritage Library
12. Orchid Garden Suites on Vito Cruz (Pablo Ocampo) in Malate, Manila

Note that most of Manila's art deco structures were reduced to rubble by the howitzers of Gen. MacArthur during the Liberation of Manila, by the order of the former Manila Mayor Lito Atienza in the case of Jai Alai or by demolition by the owners unable to find adaptive re-use of the edifices.